![]() ![]() October 1989 – 1994 Honda Concerto GL (European market).1987–1991 Honda Civic GL and 1990 CRX (European market).1989–1994 Honda City CE, CE Fit, CE Select, CG, CR-i, CR-i limited, CZ-i, New Fit (Japanese Market).Valvetrain : SOHC (2 valves per cylinder).Fuel Control : Multi-point fuel Injection, PGM-FI.Valvetrain : SOHC (four valves per cylinder), 16 valves.Fuel Control: Single electronic carburetor PGM-CARB.Valvetrain: SOHC, four valves per cylinder.1992–1995 Honda Civic DX/EX (European Market).Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder).1988–1995 Honda Civic EC (European Market).Fuel Control: Single Carburetor PGM-CARBĭ13 series engines (1.3 liter) D13B1.1988-1990 Honda Civic (European Market).Valvetrain: SOHC (4 valves per cylinder).1986-1988 Honda City GG (Japanese Market).No one sells replacement gaskets for timing belt covers, how sad.D12 series engines (1.2 liter) D12A Due to the fact the timing belt covers' gaskets were deteriorated, I used silicone adhesive to stick them back into the grooves. I made corresponding marks onto the new belt at the identical locations. I did the same with the crankshaft sprocket (my jdm civic does not have any mark on the Crankshaft sprocket to tell me where is TDC). I used a metal marker to mark the camshaft pulley and the outer surface of the timing belt. I took out the backing plate for the Crankshaft Pulley. Once removed I used degreaser to clean the cover. The lower cover is held by six 10mm bolts and takes a little patience to remove due to very tight spaces involved. Three 17mm nuts were removed to take off the engine mount upper bracket. The OEM jack is used with a piece of wood to support the oil sump pan. At this point I used the safety jack to support the front of the car. I used degreaser to clean the pulley to ensure good belt grip after the job was done. The pulley, woodruff key, bolt, backing plate all came out and were safely put aside. I used a safety stand to support the end of the extension bar to give me leverage to turn the bolt. This and my breaker bar/extension bar/17mm deep socket 3/4inch drive were all used to easily remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. The Honda crankshaft pulley tool is essential for removing the pulley. I made sure to clean the cover with degreaser and allow to dry while continuing with the next stage. The oil dipstick and holding clip had to be removed along with these bolts. The Timing belt upper cover is held by two 10mm bolts. Using a 17mm deep socket and ratchet, I rotated the engine anti-clockwise to get the camshaft arrow pointing UP. ![]() I put the engine oil dip stick aside with the head cover. The cover was safely put aside with its gasket and bolts. The head cover came off next by removing the spark plug wires and accelerator cable bracket. The AC idler pulley and bracket came off also. Using 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets and spanners, this was easy to do (the AC belt is the trickiest to get out though). The air conditioning and alternator belts all need to come off also. This gives the world of room to work on rest of the engine. The pump and reservoir must be lifted up and out to rest on the left headlight bracket (the reservoir bracket can be removed to provide more access). The power steering belt, reservoir and pump came off first. ![]()
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